Split and Balkan Food

First impression of Split is that it just seemd to be a city full of hot young ladies ! Coming off the boat I had found one of the older variety with a room to rent and she also like yesterday tried to increase the price once I arrived. We had agreed on 120 kuna, then when i got there, there was the 'solo use 150 kuna'. Surely she had noticed on the 10-15 min walk that I was on my own ?? I refused anyway and as I was a bit tired just stayed there anyway even though it was a bit of a dive, grey walls, concrete floor, ancient wooden bed and as I found out the next morning no hot water (unless that was just because I hadn't paid out the extra).

Walked wound the market stalls selling loads of clothes, fruit & veg and various Balkan snacks of which the most common I had found so far was 'burek'. A filo pastry slice with a choice of fillings. In Slovenia you could have apple, spinach or meat, in Croatia it seemed to be meat or crumbled feta cheese. Apple ones in Slovenia are especially recommended, but they are all pretty good, even if they are a bit greasy !



Left: Vegetable Market stall in Split
Right: A meaty burek

First thing to do was visit Diocletian's Palace - a World Heritage Site - and explored around the old streets there which was quite nice but didn't last long. Then I took a bust to Solin (Salona) an ancient roman capital of ....? At this point the weather was still scorchingly hot. After getting off at the wrong bust stop and walking 2 or 3 km to the site I started checking out the ancient roman ruins just as dark clouds approached over the mountains surrounding me. Quick dash around, didn't make it to the amphitheatre, but fortunately I did make it back to the shelter of the cafe, before the threatening storm which looked to great to ignore reached diurectly above and released a torrential downpour of rain. Quick beer sheltering in the cafe from the thunder and lightning and took a bus back to Split.

Arriving back it was raining harder than if you held all the showers in the world above Split and turned them all on at full power simultaneously. Within a short time the streets were like rivers and crowds sheltered under cafe umbrellas and in entrances to buildings. At moments when it eased to simply 'raining very hard', people dashed from one point to the next trying to make some progress towards their next destination. I watched and dashed around myself ignoring the intriguing alleyways and architecture, noticing only all the pretty ladies dashing everywhere.

Evening was spent in an ideal little cafe, over looking the harbour with good muic and a constant supply of the excellent Croatian beer, Karlovacko.



Left: Entrance to Diocletian's Palace
Right: Croatia's best beer, Karlovacko

Number of the Beast

I kept finding myself singing "Number of the Beast" by Iron Maiden today, weird....

From Pula to Split

Take a boat trip off the coast of Pula, around the Brijuni islands, a national park with roaming wild animals and many species of exotic subtropical plants. The trip though is nothing special as I cannot go onto to any of the islands as that requires an all day tour and has to be organised by a tour company. I am leaving this afternoon. Most interesting sights are that of Tito's holiday home, during his leadership of the former Yugoslavia and the views of teh amphitheatre as you leave or enter the harbour



Left: Amphitheatre frm the sea
Right: Me on the boat!

Get a bus to Rijeka which skirts along the Gulf of Kvarner, offering stunning views of the coast and islands as we speed along the winding coast roads, with a driver chatting away on his mobile.

At Rijeka, I take a Jadrolijna ferry to Split and wake early to cath the early morning view of Split harbour.



Left: Split harbour from a boat at around 5:45am
Right: Another view from the main promenade

Pula

Head down to the harbour in Koper and sit by the water having breakfast and ice cream. Ice cream parlours are everywhere in Slovenia and everyone seems to sit in cafes eating some kind of deserts all day long, how nice, I could handle that.

After a little incident with the landlord and some bags (you had to be there) we head off to the bus station, I am heading south to Croatia to work my way down the Dalmatian coast. Take a bus to Pula whose star attraction is a roman amphitheatre.

Find some old lady at bus station to stay with, she tries to rip me off by increasing the price when i get to her place and then doesn't have change etc etc..grrrrr. Then tries to soften me with a couple of local brandies. Walk down the road to town and see a rock cafe advertising a Motorhead gig, unfortunately I am 1 week too early, that would have been a laugh.

Amphitheatre is an awesome site (sight?), still pretty well preserved, it is cool just to sit on the steps and look all around.

Piran revisited, Izola & Koper

Last night I met Justyna from Gdansk, who is staying in the room next door, both travelling alone we decide to stick together for a day. As I didn't get enough of Piran yesterday I was happy to go back there as Justyna has not yet been. So spend part of the day exploring this pretty little town again.

From the castle walls again, I can see FK Piran putting into practice their training of yesterday as they apparently take on local rivals Izola.



Left: Justyna from Poland relaxes on the castle walls
Right: Action from FK Piran v Izola.

Take a bus back ghalf way to Izola and walk through the harbour into the town which again is a small, old town full of zig zaggy streets lined with plenty of art shops and cafes.

Left: View of the old town of Izola from the marina.

Right: Sunset along the walk home from Izola to Koper

After a gorgeous walk home along the coast watching the sun setting in a sky of ever changing colour, the last moments of the day, were spent watching some kind of rock climbing exhibition in the square in Koper, I was attracted there by the music, thinking there was a music concert going on on the stage, but sadly not.

Left: Justyna in one of the maze of little old streets full of colourful houses in Piran.
Right: Fisherman in the sunset between Izola and Koper

Off to the Istrian Coast

Next stop, Koper - previosly know as Capodistria - when it was the capital of Istria under the 15th and 16th century Venetian Republic. The bus goes along the same route I cycled yesterday and as if to prove my point yesterday, we pass the Giro de Italia, probably in the top 3 most famous cycling races in the world, following the same route I had just 24 hours earlier. I wonder if they matched my time ;-)

At Koper I wander around its pleasent narrow streets and alleys filled with cafes and boutiques and grab some lunch, before heading off to Piran for a half day trip. First sight of Piran is beautiful, a picturesque harbour with colourful buildings surrounded by the sea.



Left: Harbour at Piran
Right: View of Piran from the castle walls

I walk the narrow, winding alleyways and find a route up to the castle walls, where you find a splendid view of the town, the coastline and Italy. The town's dominating feature is the St. George's Church, while on the other side, hills and coastlines fade into the distance and a local football team are doing their training. Walking down to the town is a maze of small streets with clealry no structure to the layout, little shops, market stalls and on the seafront, cafes and restaurants, you can easily get lost wandering around, but you know it is so small you will eventually hit the seaside again on one side or the other.



Left: St George's Church, Piran
Right: Boys warming up for the world cup in old Piran



The mazey street of Piran

Skocjan Caves

Next day it's a 35km cycle each way to Park Skocjanske Jame (Skocjan Caves). Expecting an easier cycle than yesterday as informed by my cycle expert "easy cycling today, good roads and quite flat" he said, I was surprised that after around half way it turned into another stretch of road usually cycled only by professionals and nutters. Steep, never ending ascents and speedy, windy descents was the dish of the day capped finally by a incredible long descent towards to the village of Divača that went on and on and on. The acceleration was so great I just could not keep up with the pedals. Seriously believing I was going to have to walk back part if this one.

Skocjan caves is a system of 11 interconnected caves again full of marvellous limestone formations of various colours, that has an even more appealing walk than the caves at Postojna. Here a path winds up and down through chambers, over natural bridges and sinkholes and along a unique underground gorge where the Reka Velka that originally formed these underground caves flows through the caves forming a series of cascades and waterfalls. The park area has been designated as a UNESCO world heritage site.



Again I observed the no photos rule, so these have been borrowed from the offical site at http://www.park-skocjanske-jame.si/

Cycling back is a bit of a challenge, back up that hill that seems to have been about 5 or 6 km constant climbing. The 55-60 km/h speeds reached gong downhill are more like 11 km/h on the way back up. It's hard work but I make it and for the rest of the journey home stop off regularly to stock up on chocolate and glucose drinks to give me the energy to get back.

Meet Nancy from Brisbane at the hostel, another Aussie on a working visa in the UK, who seems to spend more time travelling than actually in the UK ! She is going on the Trans-Siberian from China to Moscow in August, so I have plenty of stories to tell about my time on that train. It's good to think back and talk about experiences from that trip that now seems such a long time ago.

Predjamski Grad

Also near to Postojna, a simple 10 km away is a mesmorising castle built into the rockface near to the tiny village of Bukovje. I found a photo of Predjamski Grad (Predjama Castle) in a day by day calendar that I had featuring special places around the world. Before leaving Amsterdam I went through this calendar and made a list of must see places, noting those that are likely to be on my path during the next year. Pedjamski Grad is one of those places.

Decided to stay in Postojna a night or two and hired a bicycle to get to the castle, the guy with the bikes was very helpful and suggested some routes I could take after the castle to lengthen the cycle. I picked a route and he advised how best to do it to avoid the big 5km climb on the way back. What he didn't say that regardless of any 5km climbs, every bloody road in Slovenia is a hill. This is nothing like cycling in Amsterdam !! Even the 10km to the castle is tough and the final steep, winding descent to the village is frightening due to the thought I have to get back up it later !

The castle is an amazing piece of medieval imagination, perched high in a cavern below an overhanging cliff with fields and a gentle stream flowing below. The castle in its present form dates back to 1570, but it is believed a castle of was first built at this site as far back as the 12th century. Its most famous inhabitant being Erasmus who lived here during the second half of the 15th century.



On the return journey I venture out on a scenic route through a few tiny villages, winding through fields, hills and more hills. Some huge descents on winding country roads carved through forests is a thrilling ride. The huge climb at the end is reminiscent of watching the Tour de France but my legs have warmed up by now and it's surprisingly not so bad when you have a bike with more than a couple of gears.

Ljubljana

Got back to Ljubljana yesterday afternoon and it was still pissing down by the bucket load. Wandered around a little of Ljubljana which was full of walking raincoats holding umbrellas, I wondered why I liked the place so much a few years ago. The market was deserted, the cafes were empty, the roads had been transformed into rivers and lakes. Locals said it would continue until tomorrow afternoon, then stop, because heavy rains in Slovenia last no more than 3 days, nice.

But this morning I woke up and the sun was shining, energised by this turnabout in the weather, I head into town and to the market, its around 8am and already it's bustling, plenty of people around picking up their fruit, veg and flowers, it's a different world to yesterday.



Pic Left: Ljubljana market stalls....
Pic Right: Famous 3 bridge crossing designed by Ljubljana's famous architect Jože Plečnik.

Brisk walk up to the castle and views of the city, back down via a mysetery route and when i eventually work out where I am, aim towards the river where by now the cafes are starting to come to life, this is the Ljubljana I remember ! Locals sitting out with a drink and an ice cream, enjoying the sunny morning in sunny Ljubljana.



Pic : Alongside the Ljublanica river

At the castle there was an exhibition of photos from Ljubljana centuries ago, comparing views of the city then an now, a fascinating comparison showing how things have changed. Well worth 10 minutes of your time if you are there.

Postojnska Jama

I missed out on visiting here last time due to time, so looking forward to seeing the caves of Postojna. In Ljubljana it's still raining constantly, take a bus to Postojna and it's just as bad there, feet are already wet and it's 3 degrees Celsius according to the signs and I only have a t-shirt and jacket, maybe I should have brought a warm top with me !

Caves tour is heaving with tourists and school trips. They offer coats there beacuse it can get cold underground apparently and drops to 7 or 8 degrees.. It's nice and warm compared to outside and drier, so I skip the offer of coat !

You head into the caves on a little train that speed through narrow passages and tunnels with intersting limestone formations all around. Off the train and it's then a 2 or 3 km walk around various caves and chambers decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, pillars (where the 2 meet) and 'curtain' formations that form on sloping roofs. Formations are also found in different colours which is related to the type of soil through which the water has flowed before reaching the cave and then dripping to create some bizarre formations. White formations are ones that are still actively growing. Many have been given names due to their resemblence to something or someone recognisable of which some are remarkebly reasonable, such as 'the diamond' and 'popeye' formations ! The caves form a network of around 20km in total.



At the end you see a few samples of the 'Proteus Anguinus' or 'human fish' found only in caves of this region and nowhere else in the world.



Was not allowed to take photos there so I borrowed these from www.showcaves.com

Slovenia

Stayed an extra night in Graz lat night, as I didn't feel like travelling far and it's a last chance for another night out with Phil, Stu, Ade and Rich for quite some time, so we make it a quiet one. Phil and I got in around 7am.

Ljubljana, I loved this city last time I was here and am looking forward to a day or two here again. It's absolutely chucking it down with rain, can't find my hostel for a while, get very wet, great start to my trip ;)

Trinidad &Tobago 1 - 2 Wales

Day starts with Phil and Stu coming into the room from a late night bar and heading off to play football in the now traditional supporters games. This morning it is against the hosts Austria rather than tonight's opposition, Trinidad & Tobago.

Austrians have 7 ex- European Cup (pre-Champions League) players apparently, so could be quite good and even the legendary Hans Krankl who I had joked about yesterday as maybe playing is on the pitch ! Wales get stuffed, but it's only for fun, the real match comes later.

Meet and go to match with Leigh 'world in motion' James who is a changed man these days he tells me, he says he apparently used to be quite wild ;-) I can't possible imagine.

Wales win 2-1 after going a goal behind and highlight of the day is that when anyone scores the sound system played '7 nation army' by White Stripes. Awesome ! Phil & I can't resist a bit of dancing around to that. That's 2 away wins in a week or 3 in 3 weeks if we count Tallinn, bit mindblowing really for anyone who's followed Wales for a while.

Graz

Graz was my first ever destination abroad when I went there with the scouts many years ago. Arriving in Graz this time and wandering around, it seemed a completely different world, I don't remember or recognise a single thing about it. I have memories of my previous visit but nothing matches. Pleasant town though. Meet up with loads of other Welsh fans here for the game on Saturday and do the usual, chatting, drinking eating etc.. Bump into Rich and Emma from Brussels who I haven't seen for a few months and it turns into a bit of a cocktail night somehow.



Above: Adrian overlooking Graz from a hill

Petrol Pump Attendants ?

Wow, they still have petrol attendants in Andorra !! I jumped out of the car and started filling up when this lady next to the petrol pump said something to me in Catalan, not sure what she had said so i just started filling up, then when she had finished the other car she came round, took the pump out of my hands, smiled and said she would finish for me. That's when I realised I was just trying to steal someones job. Sorry ;)

It's snowing in Andorra

23 May: First time in Andorra ! The climb up the pyranees from France passes through lovely countryside and many picturesque villages, we go up and up and up and
eventually reach the Andorran border control.. Weather has changed a bit,
it was around 17 degrees in bordeaux, the signs show 1 degree as we reach Andorra and it's snowing ! Locals are wrapped up in parkas and gloves, crumbs didn't expect this, I only have t-shirts & shirts with me. Continue to climb into thick, thick cloud in which you can see only a couple of metres ahead, not so great when you are on winding mountain roads, with hairpin bends and massive drops just a footstep away. Eventually reach the top and there are breaks in the cloud on the other side of the peak and the descent is a breeze.
Andorra la Vella is a bit disappointing, clearly there as nothing much more than a tax free shopping haven for those looking for bargain perfumes, electronics, jewellery, cigarettes and alcohol, hardly a bar in site !

24 May: After a little brainstorming we decide on a plan to head back up to the mountains and take a healthy fresh air hike some place. Destination: Estanys (Lakes) de Tristaina. The drive up is winding and stunning views surround us, snow capped mountain peaks all around and clear blue sky without a cloud in site. Reach the start point of the walk and wander off towards the three lakes. The first views are great and it just gets better and better, slowly walking across layers of snow of unknown depth, clambering over rocks, jumping rivers and enjoying panoramic views of the glacial landscape. It's really stunning scenery all around.

Left: Phil and Stu
Right : Another great view

Wedding Present in Bordeaux

Had to be done really, Phil is a huge fan, I have enjoyed them immensely each time I have seen them live and Bordeaux is supposed to be quite nice anyway. Bit of a drive from Bilbao and get there early evening, Wander around Bordeaux looking for the venue and somewhere to stay. Find a hotel where we ask prices and directions and apparently the band are staying there !

Another great WP gig at the Sonart club in Bordeaux and as usual Mr Gedge hangs around talking to fans and selling t-shirts after. I have a few words with him and he seems pretty grateful for us making the effort to get there, but I don't mention anything about drunk Scottish girls talking to him in Amsterdam ;-) (you had to be there to understand!)



Left: Weddinpg Present on stage in Sonart Arts Club, Bordeaux
Right: Mr Gedge during one of his guitar bits

Have a drink after in the Dastardly & Mutley bar. Really. Look !

Euskadi 0 - 1 Cymru

Wales win 1-0 ;-) Basques are a great bunch of fans, some even have Wales flags in the crowd ! Lots of shirt swapping, handshakes, hugs, photos and chatting amongst the fans. Best sociable atmosphere at an away match ever probably.



Left: Proud Basque fans wave their flag.
Right: Welsh flags and flares up above

Basque Country

19 May: Arrive in the Basque country for 3 days in Bilbao. Was originally going to be just 2 days but teh Spanis FA messed about with their final league games and Wales match against Basque XI (Euskadi) is put back a day to Sunday. Meet all the usual crowd around Bilbao and find a great indie music club, playing all sorts including Motorhead !! Also remember So Lonely by the Police being played, I'd forgotten what a great track that is. Meet Ian later and he finds us an early morning bar which seems to have just opened around 4am. Stay there for a few hours in a gezellig atmosphere.

Here's a photo from Ian's photo site http://www.flickr.com/photos/ianjamesjohnson/154411831/

Front from left to right, Phil, Ian, me and Stu at the back.

Back to Amsterdam again

13 May: Pop back to Amsterdam for a day or two (I can't stay away) to see Mudhoney at the Melkweg on way back to the UK. Catch up again after a whole week away with Rebecca, Peter, James and later Nadja which is rather strange after I did all the goodbye stuff last week. But nice to see each other again.

Week 1: Estonia

09 May: Overnight bus to Tallinn and get there nice and early to stroll around the beautiful old streets of Tallinn. It is as charming and appealing as ever. Meet up with Phil and Stu who arrive a little later by plane and we head to the main square where we find a few of the other Welsh lads over here for the Estonia v Wales U21 match and the legendary John Toshack having a drink in the sunshine. John is happy to discuss everything about the setup and goings on in Welsh football with us and it's quite an enlightening afternoon. I remember something about Phil and some Australian girl, but the details slip my mind ;-) I also end up locked out of the appartment most of the night, but we had a good time it seems.

10 May: Enjoy some Estonian delights in a medieval restaurant, which has the spookiest darkest candlelight toilet I have ever been to. Even finding the doorway and the urinals was a challenge, that I'm sure many have failed.

Wales U21 win the match 2-0 in front of their 20 faithful travelling fans and an Estonian lady that John invited along. Lots of 'Waltzing Matilda' was sung (ref: 09 May) and we head back into town where we end up at a Karaoke bar. After a few drinks the temptation to get up and celebrate with our rendition of 'Delilah' was too much. As there was little interest from the rest of the listening public, we ended up there a number of times and Men At Work - Down Under (for Phil that one) and Hey Jude (or Hey Wales as it has now become) were both among the set performed by the Welsh Spice Boys ;-)

You can see karaoke photos at John Perrett's photo site: Spice Boys on Tour 2006



Left: John P, Gareth and shy Perry enjoy a beer in Tallin
Right: Me, Phil, Stu and half a Neil.