Kiev

I hadn't intended going to Kiev yet as I needed to get back to Odessa to collect a Russian visa from the consulate, but somehow I think Leah and Kristina - "the hot ozzie chicks" as they like to call themsleves - seemed to hypnotise me I think. Because of my bit of Russian ability, they got me to go buy their tickets for their journey to Kiev, I was still deciding about how and when to leave myself, but without having decided in my head what I was going to do, I instinctively bought a third ticket for myself, it was only a short while after I realised what I had done. So anyway another overnight train with them to Kiev was a fun one. Albi, an Ukranian in the next carriage heard us outside speaking English and wanted to talk, he was a military journalist and had been many interesting places. Soon after we were invited in with Dima and Natasha who had a fine bottle of brandy to help pass the long journey. A typical Eatern Europe train journey with locals and cognac was fun and interesting night helped get a good if short nights sleep.

Kiev has changed a lot since my last visit in 2000. Partly perhaps as it was summer time now and it had a lot more outdoor activity, but the centre around the main square - Maydan Nezalezhnosti - where the Ukrainians gathered during the Orange Revolution of a couple of years is completely revamped and has cafes, stalls and fountains around. Last time I remember much of it was like a building site. Underground where used to be lots of small private stalls a new modern shopping complex has appeared. For those who were there with me last time, the "cowboy bar" has changed its name now, but I did not go in this time.

Visited the "Cave Monastaries" (Kiev Pechersk Lavra), the first monastery of Kyivan Rus, a walled area with monasteries, orthodox churches and a 97m high belfry. The churches were very impressive from outside and although impressive inside, maybe a bit over elaborate. The cave monsateries were remarkable, underground, claustrophobic, winding, weaving paths lined with coffins containing the preserved bodies of monks who previously lived there. A bit freaky but an impressive and unique experince, there were more to be seen but unfortunately could not find all or found them after closing time. Also visited 'Raden Mat' or the 'Defence of the Motherland monument' which I only saw from a distance last time, a huge female silver statue that dominates Kiev's skyline.


Left: Dormition Cathedral at Pechersk Lavra
Right: Sofiysky Sobor (St Sophia's Cathedral)

Next day we visited St Sophia's Cathedral and St Michael's (built for Queen Olga of Kyiv Rus, during the 11th century), again quite impressive orthodox churches with golden domes that shone brightly in the beautiful sunshine that engulfed Kiev. Finally ended the sightseeing along the stall lined Aleksandrii Vuliva which is filled with Ukrainian and Soviet memorobelia and souveniers.


Left: Another of Kiev's many domed orthodox churches
Right: St Michael's Monsatery

The night ended in O'Briens (Phil and Stu might remember from last time!) watching the world cup final with Kristina and Leah for our last night together. They are leaving to Lviv and the Baltic countries while I head East. I will miss them loads in their own unique ways, have had a fun last week with them from Odessa to Kiev, will feel strange not seeing them each day from now onwards. Will just have to try find someone to replace them ;-)



Left: With Leah and kristina, our last night together was in Kiev watching the World Cup final.
Right: One of the sweetest cats ever was in my compartment on train bck to Odesa.