There were two ways to get to Champasak, take a bus down the highway to a town on the East of the Mekong and then across on a ferry, or take a boat! No choice there, even it cost a bit more. There turned out to be seven of us on the boat, it wasn't the largish boat I had expected from photos, but a small typical Mekong river boat large enough for about 8 people, out of season they use this cheaper option. It was a pretty nice trip, around 3 hours floating peacefully along the Mekong river, past mountains and fields. It's the third time I've been on a stretch of the Mekong by boat, it wasn't the most scenic, but it was certainly the most peaceful stretch of Mekong water I've been on.
We were surprisingly dropped off at the bottom of a steep ladder along the banks of the river, rather than at the ferry port. Up the ladder we ended up right in a guesthouse, obviously a favourite of the driver, i.e. a good commission. But it turned out to be handy as the port was quite a walk away from any accommodation, the place was ok and we bargained a cheaper price than the one we had planned to stay at, so was happy with it. Five took a taxi straight to the Champasak ruins site as they wanted to leave again the same day. Francoise and I stayed here and hired bicycles to cycle the 10km or so to the site which was well worth it. The road was surrounded by paddy fields, mountain views and the lovely Lao people who would spot us and shout out 'Sabai dii' (hello) as we passed by. The children however young would get excited at the sight of us and some even ran out to the road to wave at us. Younger ones cradled in mother's arms who had probably not been speaking for so long were encouraged by mothers to shout and wave at us. Laos is surely still home to the friendliest and warmest people in any country I have ever visited.
The ruins at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Champasak are worth the visit, the best part being the view from the top of the slope at which there are some temples overlooking the ruins and the landscape far around. Soon after we climbed the steps we were joined by a large group of mainly female, Lao students from Vientiane. After some interviews and photos with some of the pretty girls, which I was happy to partake in, I was allowed once more to get on with my sightseeing which was interrupted for twenty minutes by a thunderous downpour during which I sheltered under the umbrella of a ladies snack stall.
The cycle back was just as interactive with locals once again stopping us to chat and we stopped at one cafe overlooking beautiful paddy fields and distant mountains for a refreshing bottle of the excellent, unbeatable Beer Lao. After a visit to check out the ferry docks, just a path, a slipway and a small vehicle carrier, a quick look around the market and a few photos later, I headed back to the guesthouse just before the storm came. I managed to get some dinner before the power cut and with no lights except a couple of skinny candles, went to sleep before an early start. The next morning I was up and breakfasted before the last sangthaew left to the ferry at 07:00, yes that was the last one!! It drove onto the vehicle carrier and I met Champasak's English teacher who has given me details in case I fancy a job there. Over the other side, more people got on to the sangthaew, a vehicle designed to fit maybe 10 people, but carrying I think it was 27 at one point, (There were about 6 down each side, maybe 8 or 9 on sacks of rice or the floor in between, a couple hanging over the edge at the back and 5 standing on the steps hanging on to the rear of the vehicle) though I might have missed someone in the crush, but this is normal in Laos and they don't seem to find it too uncomfortable, though I did, and had to enforce a little repositioning of legs once or twice to stop them from dying underneath me. Anyway I arrived and could still just about walk to a ticket agent to sort out a ticket to Vietnam that evening.
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