Thursday, July 12, 2007

Historic HoiAn to Hectic Hanoi

Hanoi, well what can you say other than it's chaotic. Stepping out of the station after a long journey from Hoi An, during which I shared a cabin with a British couple living in the Cameron Highlands on Central Malaysia, where they taught at a local school, I was bombarded by offers of xe-om (motorbike) and car taxis, wherever I paused, I was approached. Fortunately they are not as persuasive as in some places, so was able to escape and made my way to find a guest house.

The most striking thing about Hanoi is the traffic, it's never ending, a stream of mainly motorbikes constantly passing by day and night. In the few places where they now have traffic light controls, it's amazing to see the stampede as the light turns green, hundreds, thousands of bikes just whizz off dodging and weaving their way through the traffic, never stopping, just slowing down to swerve around pedestrians and other vehicles that are heading in a similar or perpendicular direction. It's amazing to watch, a bit hairy to be involved as I was on a few occassions. The thirty minute ride to and from the football stadium was memorable, I didn't know whether to close my eyes or to watch alertly at the route, so I was prepared for any sudden weaving, slowing or other evasive actions. Of course the drivers know what they are doing and that gave me confidence, but it's strange to be driving just a leg's width away from another bike and see them swerve towards you, then edge away just in time. Roundabouts and crossings are unbelievable, slowing down, dodging and weaving and everyone just gets through with little problem, it's amazing! trying to walk across a road is another thing and takes some nerve and practice!

As for the rest of Hanoi, it's got heaps of chracter, old buildings, a mixture of colonial and Vietnamese, a mix of food places, some of which blend Asian and French style for some interesting cuisine, ad hoc morning markets, which seem to appear anywhere, generally nice people, though you have to watch them as they do try to take advantage of foreigners and a just generally non-stop scene of activity. I didn't love it, but it's certainly fascinating viewing.

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