Sometime in my younger days I heard the name Astrakhan somewhere, a book, article, documentary, film I dont know, but it always fascinated me, so always fancied going there. I left Moscow on a Thursday lunch time armed with noodles, tea bags, fruit juice, water, beer, chocolate, books and music for the 28 hour train journey. I really love these relaxing Russian train journeys, the longer the better..
Went through the usual settling in habits in my kupe cabin which i was sharing with Max from somewhere in the Volgograd region. His young daughter lives there still, but he is based in the navy in the far northern city of Archangelsk. When he got off it was a lovely sight seeing his young daughter run over the tracks to him with arms wide open to give him a big hug. Next I was joined by someone else who was Chechan and went on a bit about Chechnya, though I didn't get much of what he was saying, I've not yet - and probably never will - reached the stage where I can discuss politics in Russian. So, instead I decided to try out the restaurant car, where I was granted a free meal for some reason, I hadn't asked for it but seems it was included in my ticket price. Sat in what I thought was a quiet seat until Jean-Paul Maret started talking to me and invited me to join, he was with his 2 lovely children, Diana and Imesh (?) and was clearly rather drunk. His voice grabbed the attention of everyone in the restaurant car who then couldn't help but stare and wonder who this strange foreigner on the train with him was.. After a couple of beers together he went back to his carriage to join his wife. Within minutes, Daniel was sitting with me, a Russian policeman from Astrakhan, I was a bit wary at first as you generally always are with police in any ex-USSR state, but he turned out to be a top man, his colleague, Emir also joined and they even gave me their mobile to call in case I had any trouble in Astrakhan. Two days later as I walked along the platform to board my train from Astrakhan to Kazakhstan, Emir spotted me and ran over, he was on duty there, but helped me to my carriage, carried my bag etc, and then - in case they were not aware already - introduced to me to everyone on the train as 'innostranets', foreigner! but a really nice guy. Once they left, Elena - the banana seller - joined me and started asking me everything everyone else asks too, where I was from? what was i doing there? was I alone? why am I alone? how old am I? am I married? why am I not married? etc etc. She was lovely and clearly rather gobsmacked at my travels, my freedom, a British passport, a kazakh visa ("my language" she pointed out), the sight of a 20 euro note - she had never seen Euros - and seemed so much in awe of so many things we see as normal. I bought 5 bananas from her and she was so, so happy, I even gave her one back to eat herself and she appeared to enjoy it so much, I can only assume she could not normally even afford to eat her own business assets.. It was so nice to be able to help make someone like her so happy for a day, with such little effort.
At Astrakhan, I discuss hotels with a taxi driver, I had called one teh day before and found it was under renovation, another I asked the driver about was also closed, he took me to another one that he recommended as cheap, but when I got there they were 'not allowed' to host British citizens, but the lady at least suggested another and came out to explain to taxi driver and then even called them for me to confirm I could stay there. I got to the 'hi-ish hotel' - is the best translatation I can come up with - which was more like a large appartment with a few rooms, I was offered a ludicrously expensive room and after i explained i am a poor backpacker tourist and wanted something cheaper was offered a more reasonable option. After accepting the taxi driver helped me with bags and didn't ask for any extra for the extra trip. The lady working there was patient and helpful with me, giving me bus details to centre and train stations, directions, address for OVIR (registration) - because they would not register me there, I guess because they also were not allowed to have foreign guests, but here, were happy to take the risk - and even walked me across the road in the morning to hail a mashrutnoe to where I wanted.
In summary, my memories of the day and Astrakhan up to this point are full of helpful, kind people.
Next day after buying a train ticket - the last one ! - to Atyrau in Kazakhstan, I explored Astrakhan. It is a wide open city on the banks of the river Volga. The Kremlin here is quite impressive from outside, with a tall white tower entrance and typical orthodox church inside that give an attractive scene from the treelined walk alongside on Leninskaya ulitsa. All afternoon, a stream of wedding parties strolled through the Kremlin grounds and out to the peaceful park opposite the entrance, where wedding photos were being taken by one party after another. Meanwhile I joined in the relaxed lifestyle of many of the locals, who were sitting around chatting and relaxing amongst the trees, flowers and fountains on this hot, sunny, Saturday afternoon.
Left: Lenin statue and Kremlin tower in Astrakhan.
Right: Church in the Kermlin grounds.The evening I spent in various cafes dotted along the Volga, where young and old Astrkahaners (?) strolled along the promenade, watching the sunset, eating, drinking and later dancing. Along the river two large, full, passenger boats depart in the evening - to where I do not know - and also a number of warships were moored in the centre of the river. A very easy-going type of life here it seems and at the end of it, I am very happy that I have at last seen with my own eyes, what was to me, the mysterious distant city of Astrakhan.
Left: One of the many wedding party cars, (I liked the 2 big golden rings on top!)Right: Naval ships in the Volga at Astrakhan.
