Some more random photos.

Left: Sneak preview of terracotta soldiers, currently on display in the Moscow History Museum.
Right: Great subject, poor photographer ;) overlooking Almaty at evening.



Left: Muslim clothing stall in Kazan.
Right: Assumption church andbell tower in Vladimir, one of Russia's finest churches.




Left: Moscow's artisitic underground stations.
Right: Matroeshkoes of every kind available on Moscow's Arbat.




Left: A griffin plant carving in Kazan.
Right: Odessa's local supermarkets use 'Sainsburys' bags for some reason.




Left: My new friends from Romania, Moldova and Ukraine, Leah and Kristina.
Right: Spiderman and Batman in Odessa, of course.



Left: MySoviet block flat accomodation in Chisinau.
Right: British telephone kiosk in Odessa !! This town is full of surprises.

Some random photos

Here are some randomly selected photos I may or may not have published already.




Left: Young Montenegran in Kotor who wanted a photo.
Centre: In Romania 'Lays' are called 'Star' but it's still 'supermodel' Ronaldinho's photo that sells them!
Right: Live music in town square Brasov, Romania.



Left: Inside the cave monastery of Orheiul Vechi, Moldova
Right: Orheiul Vechi and Raut river, Moldova



Left: Sunset in Dubrovnik
Right: Portsmouth FC ? Are they really popular in Budva, Montenegro ?



Left: Cat asleep in the fortress walls of Dubrovnik.
Centre: St Basil's , Moscow.
Right: Photo shop in Herceg Novi. Don't take your photos here!




Left: Amphitheatre in Pula, Croatia.
Right: Perisan carpets in Mostar market, Bosnia.

Roland's Travelog: Moldovan countryside

Have just added this bit back from End June, bit late getting it written !

Roland's Travelog: Moldovan countryside

Visa Watch ! - Part 2 (Transdniestr)

Country (so called): Transdniestr (Republic of Transdniestr, Moldova)
Location: Border post of Transdniestr

30 June pm: Arrived at 'non-existent' border in afternoon by bus. Passports checked, mine and 2 others are taken away by guards, told to go into soldier hut. Bags searched money asked for as they say Moldova visa not valid and Transdniestr visa required, as expected although we all know it's nonsense. Bribe required or I won't be allowed past, again as expected, haggle and bribe paid. Goto border post to get transit visa which i know costs 8 Lei. Asked for 10 Euro, I tell them no, it's 8 Lei, he asks who says this, I reply that soldiers at post and locals all tell me it's 8 lei. He kicks me out of room and says to get visa from soldiers then. Keep trying with soldiers and other border guards, no luck, they just won't give me transit pass. Bus driver gets pissed off and tells me my bags are being taken off.. He walks to bus, throws my bags off and drives away. Find bus back to Chisinau and they let me on.

Time Spent: Approx 40 minutes .
Time Wasted: Most of the day travelling.
Summary: Failed. Frustrating and disappointed not to get in and pissed off with stupid border guards for a non-existing country, wanting more money just beacuse I am not Moldovan, no reason not be let in is it?

Moldovan countryside

One day I went on a visit to Orheiul Vechi ('Old Orhei') to see one of Moldova's most interesting sites, a cave monsatery carved in the side of a cliff about 60 metres above the river Raut. On the way there I began to pick up clues about the way of life in rural Moldova. Religion is still a very strong part of the life here, in all the villages and often in between, I spotted shrines of various description along the roadsides, always with much of the sky blue colour that is always, it appears, obviously linked to the orthodox churches. Even more surprisingly I also noticed that many of the houses are painted this pastel blue color, as were sheds, out buildings, fences, gates and walls. This colour is everywhere in the Moldovan countryside ! I also saw many ladies walking along roadsides with buckets, I also spotted a large number of wells, which clearly adds up to the conclusion, there is no running water outside of the largest of cities here and locals still have to go to collect their water daily to be able to wash, cook, clean etc. Things that we take for granted like running water are still not common in all of Europe.

At the cave monastery, I entered a flight of dark stairs heading down towards the glimmer of a distant lamp. At the bottom was the 'Pestere' monastery, a small cave which is still used by monks today. I was shown were in the old days the resident monks used to sleep, each having their own small alcove in an unlit cave behind the main church. Outside of the church door, which stepped out onto a ledge in the rocks, were great views of the valley and river flowing below, there were also windows built for the monastery in the cave wall. The monk there who spoke a little English as well as good French and Russian, was able to in a mix of languages tell me a little about the history and how the monks were kicked out when Russia occupied the country in the 19th century. But now since the break of the Soviet Union, Monastic life there resumed. He also showed me where I could find a steep stony path down the hill side (not one for anyone scared of heights or walking along steep drops) to where more caves could be found. Many of the original 120 caves were now impossible to enter since an earthquake caused them to collapse, but around 40 are still passable. I reached some but they were all being guarded by mean looking cows or goats and so i did not venture inside any.



Left: The kind, friendly old monk who wanted to tell me everything about the caves and his life.
Right: Views from the outside door of the cave monastery

There was also a picturesque church just along the top of the hill side, not surprisingly this had also been adopted as a shading place of a few cows in the incredibly hot and humid Moldovan climate.



Left: Another church built close by to the Pestere monsatery.
Right: Moldovan flag flies above the government palace in Chisinau

First Impressions of Moldova

First experience of Moldova was getting off a bus at 5am outside the central market at Chisinau bus station. A couple of friendly locals pestered me to change money and take a taxi, but I was still half asleep, didn't know what the exchange rate should be (should always do your research first!!) and didn't have anywhere to goto anyway. Sat down for a while and ate my breakfast while watching the market vendors unloading huge carcasses from a van in front of me.. Urrgghhhh.

Got to my flat in a large communist style residential block, 20 minutes from the centre on one of the superb but often overcrowded minibusses that is the hub of the city's public transport system.

Back in town I tried to find what there was to visit there, nothing much to be honest so I tried some musems, something I haven't done on this trip so far. The National Archeology and Ethonography Museum was first, I got my student discount with my fake student card - which made it around 60 Euro cents instead of 1 Euro. She asked where i studied, so I answered Amsterdam (which is says on my fake student id card) and she then took great pleasure in telling all the other ladies there, i was a student from Amsterdam. I suspect they don't have that many foreigners there. Skeleton of a large mammoth like creature was quite impressive, much of the rest was just broken, pots, jugs, coins, spearheads, etc as seen in most history museums.

The Chisinau History Museum was next, I felt guilty using my student card now as they were so cheap anyway so didn't try it this time. The lady at the desk turned to her colleage and said "How much is it, 10 Lei ?", "No 15, her colleague answered". Either it was a very long long time since anybody else visited, or they had some special foreigner price, not sure which. Some nice woven rugs here in interesting colorful patterns that resembled incan design.

Final one for the day was the National History Museum, open from 0900 - 1800 according to the sign outside. I arrived around 16:50, but while purchasing my ticket from the cashier, another lady arrived and (insisting on speaking French for some reason, despite the first lady understanding my Russian attempts ok) explained that it closed at 16:30. Confused and hot from the steamy and humid 40 degrees outside I just asked when they opened tomorrow and went for a walk.

Next I came across parks, churches, statues of famous Moldovans and the Moldovan attempt at a "L'Arc de Triomphe". All around here it was very surprisingly pleasant, loads of cafes to sit out at and a good restaurant to eat at. A huge lamb saute with rice and a seperate plate of 'vegetables in foil' plus 2 large beers for about 7 Euros plus Brazil v Ghana on two TVs; can't argue with that !



Left: Central Park in Chisinau
Right: Orthodox church in Chisinau

Chisinau, despite the poor condition of many roads has plenty of nice places to see and wander around, big streets and building like many ex-Soviet cities, but also seems to be quite an arty city and overall better than expected. Also very, very busy at night, lots going on, which is what I'm about to do more research on., bye for now.

Visa Watch ! (Moldova)

Anyone who has ever visited a consulate to obtain a visa will know that it's a mission fraught with frustration and often despair. So I have decided to write a page that will keep a track of my visa experiences over the next few months, which being mainly ex-Soviet coutries are sure to hold a few surprises and stories.

Country: Moldova.
Location of Consulate: Bucharest.

20 June, 10:00 - Set off on my way to the Moldovan consulate in Bucharest. Get lost, so get a taxi, arrive to find this is the embassy only and consular section is at another address. Arrive there at 11:40. Security say they are closed and point at the opening times sign that says Open 08:30 - 12:30 & 15:00 - 16:00. I point out it is 11:40 and is therefore open, but he insists I come back after 15:00 as they are closed.

20 June, 15:15 - Security tell me, consulate is closed, but to wait. After about 15 minutes I am allowed in. My completed application form is apparently an old one and I have to fill in a new one (which has exactly the same data and boxes, just slightly different layout). Now, have to go to a bank to pay $60 and come back with a till receipt. Bank is back in centre of town, so not possible to get there and back by 16:00. I go and pay bill and get receipt.

21 June, 10:15 - Back at consulate, security tell me they are closed, come back in one hour.

21 June, 11:20 - Back at consulate, still closed. this time there is a queue of one other person so I wait. About 20 minutes later, there are four of us queueuing. I get in second and receive without too much fuss my Moldovan visa at around 11:45.

Total Duration * : 24 hours 05 minutes.
Actual Time Spent : 4 hours 15 minutes.

* Measured from time of first arrival at consulate, to receiving visa.

Summary: Not bad really, 24 hours, as it would have taken 7 days in the Netherlands. Frustrating they are often 'closed' when they are supposed to be open. It does look like the consulate in Bucharest has a bit of an easy life, 5 working hours a day and a lot of that they seem to be closed for coffe breaks or something or other.